Category Italian

Gnocchi with Leeks & Blistered Cherry Tomatoes {vegan}

It was so charming. The decoration in the basement-level café evoked a cross between a grotto and a market. A glass display case held tiramisus and Oranginas, and light leaked in from the little basement windows near the ceiling. Shelves on the walls displayed those Italian “nona’s” cookies, lots of stick crackers, and bags of […]

Sun-Dried Tomato & Cauliflower Fusilli {Vegan}

So you know how when someone puts this on Pinterest, “This is the BEST recipe for vegan meatballs,” and your first response is a stifled gag, your second is “Oh gross, soy,” and your third is, “Okay, that might taste okay, but only because people leading a vegan lifestyle have forgotten what meat and cheese […]

3-Ingredient Summer Tomato Sauce

“That does look decadent, like you could make it into a sorbet,” my friend Sarah said. She was referring to the bowl basin of frothy tomato juice on the countertop. Sarah and her husband were in town for a wedding and were staying with us. On Friday when she wandered into the kitchen before a […]

Italian White Bean Hummus

Sometimes on my husband’s day “off” from the restaurant, we go out to eat together. Now, Waco isn’t known for its plethora of dining options, at least not for a vegetable-eating, bread-avoiding type like me, so there aren’t that many places to choose from. Still, it takes us ages to decide where to go. I […]

Roasted Cauliflower Penne with Sardines & Capers

Evening shadows cut horizontal bars across the kitchen and sunbeams made stripes of dust in the air. The sideways sun cast a threatening glare on the cake I had just frosted. The late sunset had deceived me — I was used to the winter light — and I was shocked to find the clock ticking […]

Dandelion Green and Spring Onion Risotto

In college I sang in a jazz combo with 5 guys. Besides me singing, we had piano, bass, drums, saxophone, and trumpet/flugelhorn. We all got course credit at the university for being in the jazz combo, but we spent most of our time getting little gigs around town, maybe at a fancy tailgate party or […]

Pappardelle with Meat Sauce

I have been trying to write about pasta for a week. I sent off a column about it, but the need to express my passion wasn’t exhausted. I wrote 1,300 words about my complicated relationship to travel (a.k.a., eating pasta abroad). I keep telling stories, framing, trying to find an angle that helps me explain […]

Olive Tapenade

We all have one: that food we just don’t like. Something we simply can’t tolerate — an ingredient that can make a whole pot of soup inedible, a whole pizza flavored with that certain undesirable something. I’ve noticed that while many people are honest about things like just not liking onions, or hating the texture […]

Italian White Bean Salad with Lemon

“Oh,” he mumbles, his mouth stuffed with food, “this is the bean salad I used to just shovel!” “Used to?” I think, secretly glad I’ve found another meatless, cheeseless dish Shorty likes as much as I do. When I first started cooking, I made this bean salad as a side dish pretty often, mostly because […]

Sleepy Sundays: Rigatoni with Tomato, Bacon, Bean Sauce

As I settle into winter, I see my friends posting about the snow that’s falling in Boston, sharing photos of white-dusted Brookline streets, their days starting with quiet, muffled mornings. Frankly, I miss it. I’ve thought a lot about what clicked so well for me in Boston. I think what I miss most are the […]